Thomas Keller's over-the-top mushroom quiche
Long ago, I went through a quiche phase, turning them out several times a week in frozen crusts from FreshDirect. Delicious, but utterly boring. Luisa told me that Thomas Keller had recipes for quiches that were two inches tall and amazing. She sent me one of those recipes, but I was too inexperienced to try it, and I had no clue about making my own crust.
Years passed, and the July issue of Food & Wine fell into my hands. In it was Keller’s recipe for over-the-top mushroom quiche, and I figured I was as ready now as I ever would be, and I should give it a go, ignoring my cholesterol for a day.
And it took a day. I’ve never spent such a long time on a pie. The crust took hours on its own. Cutting two sticks of butter into two cups of flour by hand nearly wiped me out. But the crust did come together fine, and, despite appearances, it didn’t crumble or break much when I transferred it into the springform pan (unlike the last time I made a pie in that pan: Nigella’s disastrous pizza rustica from exactly one year ago).
The filling was simple and outrageous: two pounds of mushrooms, two cups of cream, two cups of milk, six eggs. I had to cut it down considerably, since my crust shrank a good inch as I was prebaking it. Keller said to leave an inch overhang, but I didn’t have nearly enough dough for such excess. Is my springform pan too tall? But even after the sinking, I had the tallest crust I’ve ever made, with ample room for most of the mushrooms and about half of the custard mixture.
An hour later, at 11:30 p.m., when this damn thing was finally ready to eat, we were hardly interested anymore, but we still ate hot slivers of it. As we ate, I told Nathan, “This is excellent, but I will never make it again.” It was even better cold the next morning for breakfast, but I still don’t see myself devoting another day to it. Maybe in a year, when I have bit more experience. Has anyone else made a Keller quiche?